The Temple of Literature

Ha Noi is intensely urban. Even with a relative lack of skyscrapers, the skyline seems choked with buildings. Motorbikes clog the streets and foul the air. The only reprieve from the tile and pavement boulevards is the parks and monuments scattered about the city. It was the search for such a sanctuary that led me to the Temple of Literature.

Ahh, fresh air.

The Temple of Literature (or Van Mieu in Vietnamese) is an important historical site in Vietnam. It was built almost 1000 years ago as a shrine to Confucius and soon became Vietnam's first university. Nobles and other big cheeses were groomed here with the Confucian classics and poetry writing. Aside from some damage caused by the French, Van Mieu has remained mostly intact. No wonder its one of the most-visited sites in Ha Noi. I would definitely suggest it to anyone who visits this city.

The roof of the main hall is littered with
money, much like a wishing well.

Entering the temple is affordable. The communist government seems keen on making national treasures accessible to everyone. It only cost me 5000VND (about 25 cents US) and an unforgettable walk from my apartment. I'll go into that walk at a later date.

Sporting an image of the Temple of Literature, this
100,000VND bill is a bit misleading. You'll
never have to drop this much cash to see Van Mieu.

There are a few things that set the Temple of Literature apart from other Asian shrines that I have seen. First is the triple path that runs through the complex. It supposedly represents Confucius' 'middle path' and was originally intended to be walked only by the King. Secondly, the main building at the very back is made of fine, dark wood and has a close, cozy layout. The hall feels almost like a Swiss lodge-- just with a few extra golden statues. Last, there are the turtles.

These happy turtles are retired from lurking Hoan Kiem.

The turtle stelae are the most famous relics present in Van Mieu. There are nearly a hundred of the roughly hewn creatures arranged into rows facing one of the courtyards. Each one has a giant stone slab inserted into its back. They were erected to honor the select scholarly few who managed to earn the title of doctor laureat. Only about 10% of students who studied here were up to the task. Throughout its history, maybe 2500 doctors laureat were ever named on the stones. Not all of them remain to be honored-- some of the turtles have disappeared as the years have passed.

The turtle imagery is everywhere.

To soak in a little culture and history or just to escape from the hustle and bustle of Vietnam's busy capital, the Temple of Literature is a place I highly recommend.

The Turtle of Hoan Kiem

The Hoan Kiem Lake turtle is a massive creature that weighs nearly 500 pounds. Its head is usually all that can be seen above the murky, green water of the lake. Its body is only identifiable as the impressive five-foot-long shadow trailing behind.

Such a large creature seems like it would have a hard time hiding in a small lake that's only 2 meters deep. That makes it all the more interesting that the Hoan Kiem Lake turtle only makes about a half-dozen appearances each year. When someone does spot the turtle, it's a special occasion.

Passing locals will drop whatever they are doing and gather by the lakeside to watch the magnificent beast. Motor-bikers pull over, mothers brave the busy street crossings with their children, and tourists whip out their expensive cameras.

The legend of the turtle says that he was a messenger from the Golden Turtle--a local god who gifted a magical sword to the Vietnamese hero, King Le Loi. The turtle is said to have sprung from the lake and snatched the sword from the king to return it to the Golden Turtle. Many Vietnamese people believe it is this same turtle that still inhabits the lake 600 years later.

Now, there are new legends associated with the turtle. One of these is that the turtle supposedly appears only on days that are important for Le Loi or Vietnam. Another is that it is good luck to see the turtle. I certainly hope this is true--Naomi and I have seen it twice!